For a 12V 150Ah Tubular Battery Which Size or Capacity Solar Panel Required to Run 300W Load Off-Grid
How to Size Solar for a 12V 150Ah Tubular Battery & Run 300W Off-Grid — Complete Guide (with Wiring Diagram & FAQ)
Short summary: This guide explains, in plain language, how to size a solar array and the balance-of-system components for a 12V, 150Ah tubular battery when you want to run 300W of load without grid electricity. You’ll get: recommended solar array size, MPPT and inverter sizing, cable & fuse recommendations, practical charge settings, a printable components table, a simple inline SVG wiring diagram, installation tips, and a full FAQ.
 |
| How to Size Solar for a 12V 150Ah Tubular Battery & Run 300W Off-Grid |
Table of Contents
- Why this matters (fast overview)
- Battery & load — raw numbers
- Solar panel sizing — how we got 500–600W
- Charge controller (MPPT) recommendations
- Inverter selection & surge handling
- Wiring diagram (HTML/SVG)
- Cable & fuse sizing (practical table)
- Recommended charge settings for tubular batteries
- Practical installation & safety tips
- Components checklist (ready for supplier)
- FAQ
Why this matters (fast overview)
If you already own a 12V 150Ah tubular battery, you have about 1,800 Wh of nominal energy (12 V × 150 Ah). For long life most installers use an 80% maximum depth-of-discharge (DoD) target for tubular batteries — that gives around 1,440 Wh usable. With a continuous 300W load, that translates to roughly 4–5 hours of backup.
But the other half of the story is charging: to recharge the battery daily (and to power the load during the daytime) you need enough solar generation. After real-world losses we recommend a solar array of about 500–600W. This guide explains why, and how to wire everything safely.
Battery & load — raw numbers (calculation)
- Battery: 12 V × 150 Ah = 1,800 Wh (1.8 kWh) nominal.
- Usable (80% DoD): 1,800 Wh × 0.8 = 1,440 Wh.
- Load: 300 W continuous → 1,440 Wh ÷ 300 W ≈ 4.8 hours.
- Charging need: To replace 1,800 Wh (fully recharge) allow for losses (wires, MPPT inefficiency, battery absorption) — assume 20–25% extra → ~2,200–2,300 Wh/day required from panels.
- Average sun-hours assumption: 4–5 peak sun hours/day (typical good-day assumption for many parts of India). Using 5 hours: 2,300 Wh ÷ 5 h ≈ 460 W → round up to 500–600W for margin.
Solar panel sizing — choose 500–600W
Practically this means examples like:
- 2 × 250 W panels = 500 W
- 3 × 200 W panels = 600 W
- 4 × 150 W panels = 600 W
Why not exactly 460W? Because real systems face shading, angle errors, inverter/MPPT inefficiencies, and seasonal changes. A slightly larger array (500–600W) gives reliable charging on most days and headroom for cloudy periods.
Charge controller (MPPT) recommendations
Use an MPPT charge controller — it’s more efficient than PWM, especially when panel voltage is higher than battery voltage. For a roughly 500–600W array on a 12 V battery:
- Expected peak battery charging current ≈ 500 W ÷ 12 V ≈ 41.7 A (real MPPT current may be lower/higher depending on panel & battery voltage).
- Recommended MPPT size: 12 V, 50–60 A MPPT (50 A minimum; 60 A gives headroom).
If you plan to expand the array later, choose an 80–100 A MPPT and wire accordingly — but for most small homes a 50–60 A MPPT is balanced and economical.
Inverter selection & surge handling
You want to run 300W continuously. Take these points into account:
- Continuous rating: Pick an inverter that can handle at least a tiny margin above 300W — 1000 VA (1 kVA) pure sine inverter is a practical choice.
- Surge capability: Motors and compressors can draw 3–6× starting current. For motor loads choose 1.5 kVA (1500 VA) to be safe. A 1 kVA inverter often supports a short surge but check inverter specs.
- DC current estimate: 300 W output / 0.90 inverter efficiency ≈ 333 W input → 333 W ÷ 12 V ≈ 27.8 A continuous from battery. Account for surge briefly when sizing cables and fuse.
Wiring diagram (simple inline SVG)
The diagram below is a simple visual — you can paste this whole SVG block into Blogger's HTML editor and it will render a compact wiring diagram showing panels, MPPT, battery, inverter and loads.
 |
| How to Size Solar for a 12V 150Ah Tubular Battery & Run 300W Off-Grid |
Diagram legend: Panels → PV fuse/combiner → MPPT → Battery → ANL fuse + isolator → Inverter → Loads.
Cable & fuse sizing (practical table)
| Connection | Estimated Current | Recommended Cable (copper) | Recommended Fuse/Breaker | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Battery ➜ Inverter (DC) | Up to 100 A surge; ~28–35 A continuous | 50 mm² (1–3 m). Use 35 mm² only for very short runs & check inverter manual. | ANL 125–150 A (match inverter manual) | Install fuse close to battery + DC isolator switch. |
| MPPT ➜ Battery | Up to ~50 A | 10–16 mm² (use 16 mm² for runs >5 m) | As recommended by MPPT (typically 60 A for 50 A MPPT) | Keep cable short; use tight lugs. |
| Solar array ➜ MPPT (PV) | Array Isc (≈ 45 A for 600W) — check panel Isc | 10 mm² up to 5–6 m; 16 mm² if longer. | PV-rated fuse or DC breaker sized > Isc but < MPPT rating (e.g., 60 A) | Observe correct polarity; use PV-rated connectors. |
| Earthing conductor | — | 6–10 mm² copper | — | Earth panel frames and inverter chassis per local code. |
Important: Always follow the inverter and MPPT manuals for exact fuse recommendations. If cable runs are long (>5 m) or routed outdoors, increase cable cross-section to reduce voltage drop.
Recommended charge settings for a tubular battery
These are typical values — always check the battery manufacturer’s datasheet when available.
- Bulk/Absorption voltage: 14.4–14.6 V (12V system).
- Float voltage: 13.6–13.8 V.
- Equalization: 14.8–15.2 V (only if manufacturer recommends occasional equalization for flooded tubular batteries).
- Charge current: 0.2–0.3 C (for 150 Ah → 30–45 A). MPPT will limit automatically to available solar current.
- Low-voltage disconnect (LVD): 11.0–11.5 V (recover around 12.2–12.6 V).
Use temperature compensation if your MPPT supports it — higher temperatures require slightly lower charge voltages, and cold requires a little higher voltage.
Practical installation & safety tips
- Ventilation: If you have flooded/tubular wet cells, place them in a ventilated area away from sparks. They can vent hydrogen during charging.
- Polarity & torque: Check polarity twice. Tighten lugs to the torque recommended by the battery/inverter manual.
- Fuse placement: Place the ANL/DC fuse very close to the battery positive terminal to protect cabling in case of short circuit.
- Grounding: Earth the panel frames and inverter chassis per local electrical code. Proper earthing improves safety and lightning protection.
- Monitoring: Install a battery monitor or at least a voltmeter + shunt to track state-of-charge and prevent over-discharge.
- Professional help: For mains interconnection, earthing, or code compliance, consult a licensed electrician or solar installer.
Components checklist (give to supplier / electrician)
| Item | Specification / Example | Qty |
|---|---|---|
| Solar panels | 500–600 W total (e.g., 2×250W or 3×200W) | As required |
| MPPT controller | 12V, 50–60 A MPPT (with temp sensor if possible) | 1 |
| Inverter (pure sine) | 12V DC → 230V AC, 1000–1500 VA, low battery cut-off | 1 |
| ANL/DC fuse & holder | 125–150 A (match inverter manual) | 1 |
| PV fuse / DC breaker | 60 A DC (match MPPT/panel Isc) | 1 |
| Cables | Battery→Inverter: 50 mm²; PV/DC: 10–16 mm²; Earthing: 6–10 mm² | As required |
| DC isolator switch | Battery disconnect switch | 1 |
| Battery monitor / shunt | Recommended | 1 |
| Mounting & earthing hardware | Panel mounts, clamps, earthing rod materials per site | As required |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I use a 40A MPPT instead of 50–60A?
A: You can, but it will be tight for a 600W array. A 40A MPPT handles ~480 W at 12 V (40 A × 12 V = 480 W) under ideal conditions, leaving little headroom. For reliability and future expansion pick 50–60A.
Q: How long will my battery last at 300W everyday?
A: If you discharge to 80% DoD daily and recharge, the battery will provide ~4–5 hours of runtime at 300W. Cycle life depends on DoD, temperature, and charging quality; keeping to 50–80% DoD and good charge practices extends life.
Q: Do I need an inverter with built-in charger?
A: Not required, but convenient. If you have a grid or generator backup, an inverter/charger lets you charge the battery from AC when available. Configure charger current moderately (30–40 A) to avoid overheating and reduce battery stress.
Q: What about battery in parallel for more backup?
A: To double backup, add another identical 150Ah battery in parallel (same age & type). You’ll need a larger MPPT and thicker battery cables, and consider an inverter with higher capacity if you increase loads.
Q: Can solar alone run the 300W load during the day?
A: Yes — during peak sun when panels produce >300W you can power the load directly and simultaneously charge the battery. In practice, with a 500–600W array you should have enough daytime power for a 300W load and to charge the battery some.
Q: Is the wiring diagram safe to use as-is?
A: The SVG is a simple visual for understanding connections. Follow the numerical cable/fuse table and the manuals of your MPPT/inverter for exact wiring. The visual is for guidance, not an installation certificate. Engage a professional electrician for live wiring and earthing to meet local regulations.
Final note: This setup — a 12V 150Ah tubular battery, a 500–600W solar array, a 50–60A MPPT, and a 1–1.5 kVA pure sine inverter — is balanced for running a 300W load reliably for ~4–5 hours at night and for daily recharge. If you want, I can now convert this into a printable PDF wiring sheet, or produce a short shopping list of specific models available in your local market (I can search current models/prices if you want me to).
